Meanwhile, one of the city’s best bowls lives here, rife with pinto beans and toasted corn and swathed in avocado dressing.
RESTAURANTS UPGRADE
The Desayuno, another fave, taps braised beef and chicharron de queso to upgrade the fried egg sandwich. The Jaliscan-inspired ahogada-carnitas-stuffed and knee deep in achiote tomato sauce-cartwheels across the tongue like a smiling demon: messy, spicy, and wicked delicious. To drink: popping boba jello shots, anyone? 1801 NE Cesar E Chavez Blvd -KBĪt this indie neighborhood spot, tortas on toasted telera rolls are the show.
In Gado Gado speak, that might mean Balinese duck satay, onion fritters sided by fermented coconut chutney and mezcal-pickled raisins, and roti apple hand pies. Expect waves of sambals, curries, dumplings, salads, grilled things, and desserts. A la carte dishes are available for walk-ins, but only a fool would miss the kitchen’s riff on the Dutch-Indonesian rijsttafel feast. A “Rice Table Experience” is now Gado Gado’s centerpiece, with distinct omnivore and vegan menus. The best way to eat here: let the kitchen cook for you. Since opening in 2019, Thomas and Mariah Pisha-Duffly have tickled our brains with some of the best eats anywhere-singular Indonesian-Chinese(ish) food, a whirling blender of family traditions and Thomas’s boundary-shredding food mind. Like most things here, it elicits f-bombs of joy all around at the table. Did we need another spicy fried chicken sandwich? Expatriate answered the question with an exclamation point, adding a fairy-dusting of Sichuan peppercorns and house-made black vinegar pickles.
RESTAURANTS SKIN
The house philosophy is “not just a dish, but a perfect version of that thing, hitting all the cylinders, a serious attempt.” That's how the kitchen masterminded Portland’s best classic cheeseburger ( at least according to PoMo’ s Burger Cabal ) and a mountain of weirdly wonderful nachos crackling with fried wonton skin chips and spicy Velveeta cheese. Expatriate, a destination since 2013, keeps the menu tightly curated. Candlelight spotlights what matters here: two turntables spinning vintage moods, careful cocktails, and Portland’s most dead-on perfect bar food.
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